"Cherry  Maggots Come To Town" would be a great name for an indie  band.  Unfortunately, this is one insect you don't want performing in your  yard. The  spotted wing drosophila (SWD), is responsible for the little  worms that  backyard gardeners are starting to find in their cherries,  and to a  lesser extent in raspberries, strawberries and blueberries.  First  spotted in Santa Cruz County in 2008, this pest is now throughout  the  West Coast, and has been spotted recently in traps in Sacramento  County and the surrounding area.
According  to Sacramento  County Farm Advisor Chuck Ingels, the adult SWD is small  (2-3 mm),  resembling a gnat that might be found on that old piece of  fruit on  your kitchen counter. This one, though, has a sharp ovipositor  (sort of  a needle-like, egg-laying device) that penetrates ripening   fruit...such as your backyard cherries, that are developing now for a May-June harvest.
 Adult  male spotted wing drosophila, Drosophila suzukii,  (2-3 mm long)   has a dark spot on each wing tip.
Photo by Martin Hauser.
Photo by Martin Hauser.
Adult  female spotted wing drosophila, Drosophila suzukii (2-3 mm long).
Photo by Martin Hauser.
Photo by Martin Hauser.
This  pest might easily be confused with a vinegar  fly or the western cherry fly. Western cherry fruit fly adults are  much larger (5 mm) than the spotted wing drosophila adults and have a  dark banding pattern on their wings. The western cherry fruit fly, which  is a quarantine pest, occurs in Washington and other states but has not  established in California. 
Here is a detailed  description of the SWD, according to an excellent report produced by  the  UC  Integrated Pest Management Website on Spotted Wing Drosophila:  "Adults are small (2-3 mm) flies with red eyes and a pale brown thorax  and abdomen with black stripes on the abdomen. The most distinguishable  trait of the adult is that the males have a black spot towards the tip  of each wing. 
Larvae  are tiny (up to 3.5 mm), white cylindrical maggots that are found  feeding in fruit. One to many larvae may be found feeding within a  single fruit. After maturing, the larvae partially or completely exit  the fruit to pupate."
Among you are those who are starting to ask the question,  "What garden insecticide can I buy to stop this pest...."
Let  me stop you right there. The cure may be worse than the problem. Limited  research has been done on this new invader to California, and the  chemical that so far has been found to best control the adult spotted  wing drosophila is deadly to one the best "garden good guys" around, the  honeybee.
The UC  IPM Website says: "Although malathion...has been shown to control  the adult SWD, coverage would need to be so thorough throughout the  entire tree. Malathion is very toxic to bees and natural enemies of  other pests in the garden, so care must be taken to keep the application  on the tree and avoid drift and runoff. Improper application can also  result in injury to the tree. Application should be made about 2 weeks  before harvest. Sprays must kill adults before they lay eggs. Malathion  will not control larvae in fruit. 
An  alternative to malathion with fewer negative environmental effects would  be spinosad (Monterey Garden Insect Spray); however, it is not believed  to be as effective against the fruit fly adults as malathion. Two  sprays may be required at about 14 days and 7 days before harvest to get  satisfactory control. As with malathion, all foliage and fruit on the  tree must be covered with the spray. Partial coverage will not be  effective. A compressed air sprayer will give more reliable coverage  than a hose end sprayer."
Two better, safer options: dispose of infested fruit and set  up traps, reports the UC IPM site: 
"Spotted  wing drosophila attacks ripening fruit, and unfortunately is  often not  noticed in backyard trees until fruit is being harvested.  Sprays at  this time will not protect the crop, because maggots are  already in the  fruit. If only some fruit are infested, you can salvage  some of the  crop by harvesting the crop immediately and sorting,  removing fruit  with stings on the surface. Place infested fruit in a  sturdy, sealed  plastic bag and dispose of it in the trash. Also remove  any fruit that  has fallen on the ground and any infested fruit remaining  on trees—this  may reduce populations of flies that might infest next  year's crops or  later ripening varieties. In addition to placing  infested fruit in the  trash, it can also be buried. Composting may not  be a reliable way to  destroy eggs and larvae in fruit." 
Netting. "Netting may be useful to keep flies from attacking fruit on blueberries and other small fruit or possibly branches on small trees. However, the netting must be applied before fruit begins to ripen so that flies will not be caught inside the net. Netting must be secured at the bottom so flies cannot enter, and the mesh size should be very small."
Early Harvest. "Early harvest can be important in reducing exposure of fruit to the pest. Begin harvest as early as you can and continue to remove fruit as soon as they ripen."
And, as that would imply, choosing cherry trees with an early harvest date may minimize problems with the spotted wing drosophila. "Usually the earliest harvested cherries get the least damage," says that UC report. Here in the Sacramento and Northern San Joaquin valleys, early ripening cherry varieties include Minnie Royal, Black Tartarian, Royal Lee, Craig's Crimson and Royal Ranier, according to wholesale fruit tree grower, Dave Wilson Nursery.
The bottom line: good sanitation - cleaning up and disposing of fallen fruit and vegetables - goes a long way to thwarting many backyard pests.



 
 
Sadly, I have a Stella cherry, one of the really late-harvesting varieties. Do the traps do a decent job of reducing the population ? Or they more of a way to see if you have drosophilia (which I already know I do)? And since I have blueberries as well, where would one find mesh that is that fine ?
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