The Farmer Fred® Rant: February 2011

Monday, February 28, 2011

When Daffodils Become Daffo-Dead

Questions about underperforming daffodils abounded in the last week. Most of those queries began, "Why aren't my daffodils blooming this year?" Unlike the bulb itself, this question is a long-lasting perennial, guaranteed to pop up in late February and early March.

Many times, daffodils won't flower if they were cut down prematurely the previous spring. Always wait until the leaves turn completely yellow before removing the leaves. This is about six weeks after flowering. If it doesn't rain, make sure those daffodils still get irrigation until the leaves are yellow. The good news: you can leave those daffodils in the ground year round.

Those non-performing daffodils may be just too darn crowded and are not getting enough food and water. If it is part of a large clump of daffodils that have ceased to bloom, it's time to separate them.

When the foliage turns brown, dig and separate the bulbs. Replant them immediately, six inches apart and about six inches deep. Or, you can dry the bulbs in the shade, store them in mesh bags, and replant the bulbs in the Fall.

The American Daffodil Society also offers these other tips on why daffodils cease to bloom:

• Bulbs have not been fed in a couple of years. Broadcast a 5-10-10 fertilizer when leaves emerge, and again at bloom is a reasonable feeding schedule.

(I prefer to feed blooming annuals, perennials and bulbs with a lower dosage organic fertilizer, such as this 3-7-4 formulation).

• Feeding has been with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. This encourages production of leaves, but seems to quell the plant's need for flowers.

• Bulbs are planted in a shady area. Daffodils need a half-day of sun at least to produce flowers.

• Bulbs are in competition for food with other plants. Planting under evergreen trees or with other fast-growing plants limits the food they can get. Result: weak plants and no flowers.

• Daffodils love water but must have good drainage. They do not do well where the water puddles, increasing their susceptibility to basal rot fungus. A stem cross-section that looks like this picture may be basal rot. A healthy stem is white. Basal rot is incurable; dig and discard the bulbs.

• Bulbs may be stressed from transplanting. Some varieties seem to skip a year of blooming if dug and replanted in a different environment.

• Some varieties bought from a grower in one climate may have a difficult period of adjustment to a vastly different climate. They may bloom the first year off the previous year's bulb, but then be unable to adequately build a flower for the following year.

• The bulbs may have a virus. Over time, an infected plant loses its vigor, puts up smaller, weakened leaves and stems, stops blooming, and finally dies. Dig and throw away the bulbs.

• Growing conditions the previous spring may have been inhospitable and the reformation of the bulb was affected. An early heat wave may have shut down bulb rebuilding before it was complete. The bulbs may have be grown in a smallish pot without adequate feeding or protection from heat and cold.

• Never buy or plant a "soft" bulb. Retail bulbs typically remain in closed crates for a lengthy period of time during shipping. These humid conditions are near-perfect for the proliferation of fungus diseases such as basal rot or fusarium.

Thursday, February 24, 2011

WTF? A Freeze in February? In California? Along the Coast?

Areas of Northern and Central California, including the coast, may see record breaking low temperatures Friday through Sunday. If your local weather forecast is calling for morning lows below 32 degrees, here's a last minute checklist:

• If it hasn't rained, water plants thoroughly, especially container plants.

• If possible, move sensitive container plants next to a south or west facing wall.

• Cover citrus and other sensitive plants with burlap, row cover fabric or sheets (be sure to keep the sheets dry). Tent plastic sheets over the plants; don't let plastic touch plant leaves. A light bulb placed in such a plant can offer a few degrees of protection.

• If using an anti-transpirant polymer coating material such as Wilt-Pruf or Cloud Cover, apply at the warmest time of the day, or at least six hours before an expected frost. However, research conducted at Washington State University concluded that these products may actually be detrimental to certain plants during a freeze. If using these products, thoroughly water the soil around the plant before applying.

• Disconnect hoses and drip lines, removing end caps. Lay out straight.

• To prevent broken grass blades, don't walk on a frozen lawn.

• Remove the lowest sprinkler head to drain.

• Cover unprotected faucets and pipes, including any spa or pool equipment.

• If temperatures are predicted to fall to the low 20's: prevent frozen attic pipes. Let lukewarm water trickle out of the indoor faucet farthest from the inlet. Also, let faucets with pipes running along an outer, north facing wall trickle during the night.

• Ideally, add insulation to attic water pipes.

• Open cabinet doors to get more heat to the pipes. Close the garage door if water pipes pass through the garage.

• Setting your thermostat nightly at 55 can add needed heat to the attic pipes.

• If leaving the house for a vacation during an expected freeze, turn off the water to the house, and open up the faucet farthest from the inlet. Be sure to turn off your water heater.

• To prevent cracking tile, run your pool and spa equipment during the freezing hours.

• Don't forget about your pets during a prolonged freeze. Bring them indoors at night. Move or replace their drinking water. Break up any frozen water in bird baths.

Monday, February 21, 2011

Go Green in the Yard and Garden...Before You Have To

Ever hear of WELO? No? You will, if you plan to do any landscaping. California passed the Water Efficient Landscape Ordinance in 2009, requiring all water suppliers to increase water use efficiency...by limiting the amount of water you use.

The ordinance (41 pages long) is still going through the bureaucratic swamp of local governments and water agencies, but it will happen.

Among the model ordinance's requirements:

• Public landscapes and private development projects including developer-installed single family and multi-family residential landscapes with at least 2500 sq. ft. of landscape area are subject to the Model Ordinance.

• Homeowner-provided landscaping at single family and multi-family homes are subject to the Model Ordinance if the landscape area is at least 5000 sq. ft.

• All new landscapes will be assigned a water budget.

• Landscapes will need an approved design plan, an irrigation design plan, grading design plan and maintenance schedule.

Basically, if it uses water, it will need approval, outdoors and indoors.

It may be years before this ordinance is fully implemented, but if there is a yard and garden rehab in your near future, you may want to consider some of these preemptive steps to keep the water police away in the future:

Use Native & Mediterranean Plants 

Native and Mediterrranean climate plants are already accustomed to much of California’s unique climates. These plants require little water, little fertilizer and very little care. And will become very popular after WELO is fully implemented. The horticultural staff of the UC Davis Arboretum have identified 100 Arboretum All Star plants. These plants are tough, reliable plants that have been tested in the Arboretum, are easy to grow, don’t need a lot of water, have few problems with pests or diseases, and have outstanding qualities in the garden. Many of them are California native plants and support native birds and beneficial insects.

Know Your Soil

Will that plant thrive in your soil’s pH? Does your soil really need more nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium?

Do a soil test before adding any fertilizer (a soil test is part of WELO approval).

Use Pesticides & Fertilizers Properly and in the Right Amounts

 "If a little is good, then more is better". That’s definitely not the mentality to use when it comes to pesticides and fertilizers. Always follow the manufacturers instructions when it comes to application methods and amounts. Be particularly careful not to over water your lawn or landscape after applying pesticides and fertilizers. Remember, everything that goes down the storm drain eventually leads to a river. (Yes, prohibiting water runoff - which might contain excess fertilizer or pesticides - is part of the WELO model ordinance).

Before Using Any Pesticide, Try These

Use cultural, physical or mechanical means to control pests. “Cultural” means: matching the plant with your yard’s conditions: sun, water and soil. Healthy plants can stave off pests and diseases better. “Physical” controls: a row cover, for example, to keep aphids and whiteflies off a young vegetable garden. “Mechanical”: a blast of water from a jet nozzle on a garden hose can dislodge aphids from rose bushes, for example ("Just make sure that nozzle has an on-off valve," admonishes Officer WELO).

Use Less-Toxic and Non-Toxic Pesticides 

Keep your kids and pets safe by using non-toxic and less-toxic pesticides in the home landscape and garden. Put in plants that attract beneficial insects. These days, there are a lot of effective non-toxic and less-toxic pesticides for sale at your local nursery or home improvement center. Know the signal words on pesticide products: Caution (least toxic)-Warning-Danger (most toxic).

Use Organic Fertilizers 

There are many organic fertilizers available at your local local nursery. These fertilizers range from steer and chicken manure to fertilizer blends made from natural materials and targeted towards different plant categories such as roses or vegetables. Organic fertilizers tend to release nutrients slowly and feed plants over a longer period of time than synthetic chemical fertilizers. Organic fertilizers may also help to amend poor soils by encouraging beneficial microbe populations in the soil, improving drainage and reducing runoff (WELO Points!)
Synthetic chemical fertilizers give plants a jolt of instant nutrition but there are downsides to that, including weaker growth that is more attractive to pests. Synthetic chemical fertilizers can burn plants if not used properly, may build up salts in the soil over time and can also produce new vegetative growth quickly that the plants root system may not be able to adequately support.

Compost 

Stop throwing away kitchen scraps and improve your soil by starting a compost pile or worm bin.

Mulch

WELO says: "A minimum two inch (2″) layer of mulch shall be applied on all exposed soil surfaces of planting areas except in turf areas, creeping or rooting groundcovers, or direct seeding applications where mulch is contraindicated." Mulch conserves water by keeping the soil evenly moist; reduces herbicide use because weeds have a harder time popping up through the mulch; reduces fertilizer use; feeds the soil by addiing organic matter that feeds the beneficial soil organisms. Mulch improves the soil by preventing soil compaction while increasing the tilth (soil structure).

Get in the Habit Now: Watch the Watering 

Check your irrigation system every month or so to make sure that you are indeed watering your landscape and not the sidewalk or your neighbor’s car. Take care of any irrigation issues such as broken spray heads promptly. Use a moisture meter to help you determine when and how much to water your landscape.  WELO's approved watering hours are 8 p.m.-10 a.m.).

New Lawn Sprinklers Use Less Water

Replace old spray and impulse sprinklers with new models that use 30% less water. And maybe swap out sprinkler systems that are watering small areas. WELO says: "Narrow or irregularly shaped areas, including turf, less than eight (8) feet in width in any direction shall be irrigated with subsurface irrigation or a low volume irrigation system."

Rain Barrels 

Every home should have at least one rain barrel system, if not three or four. If 100,000 homes were to have just one 55 gallon rain barrel, it would save 5.5 million gallons of water every year. WELO says: "Rain gardens, cisterns, and other landscape features and practices that increase rainwater capture and create opportunities for infiltration and/or onsite storage are recommended."

Grasscycle 

Ditch the bag and grasscycle with a mulching mower. It’s easy, keeps your lawn looking great and best of all - no more heavy bags of grass clippings to dispose of. Mulching mowers, however, are not mandated by WELO. Yet.

Reduce the size of your lawn.

WELO will nudge you in that direction: "Turf is not allowed on slopes greater than 25% where the toe of the slope is adjacent to an impermeable hardscape." Then, choose turf species that use less water. Blends that include certain fescues or bentgrass require 50% less water.

The Our Water, Our World Program

is a program that helps to identify non-toxic and less-toxics methods of pest eradication. The Our Water, Our World program distributes information sheets on effective pest control and uses special shelf labels to help customer identify of non-toxic and less-toxic pesticide choices. http://www.ourwaterourworld.org/

The Master Gardener Program

is a program that is under the University of California Cooperative Extension that is designed to assist residents with landscape and gardening issues. The Master Gardener’s IPM or Integrated Pest Management program features tons of information how to deal with pests, diseases and fungus effectively.

=========================================
By the way, the WELO Model Ordinance is just a foundation for even more draconian watering rules in California. From the WELO FAQ:

"Can we make our local ordinance more stringent?"

"Yes, due to water supply conditions, climate and other factors, a local agency may make any provisions in its local ordinance more stringent than the Model Ordinance (option #2). For example, a local ordinance may further reduce the ET Adjustment Factor, limit turf grass area, use plant lists, or have specific fire prevention requirements. These will be determined by the local agency."   

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Know Your Fruit Tree Rootstocks

Whether you are bare root fruit tree shopping in winter or picking out containerized fruit trees in other times of the year, read the label on the tree. Both of them.

After you're done salivating over the fruit's juicy details after reading the top tag, pay attention to that bottom label.

That tag, the rootstock information, is critical in determining whether the tree will live or die in your soil.

Fruit trees are grafted onto various rootstocks to extend the range for that tree, giving it the ability to grow where it might not normally be possible (due to sandy soils, wet soils, crown rots, nematodes, etc.). Rootstocks can also help control the height of the tree or offer drought tolerance or more protection in cold winter areas.

But no single root stock is perfect. Each has its pros and cons.

Here is a list of some of the more commonly available rootstocks for deciduous fruit trees, along with their pros and cons, according to wholesale fruit tree grower, Dave Wilson Nursery:

Nemaguard peach seedling

Pros root-knot nematode resistant, vigorous, strong tree.

Cons susceptible to root-lesion nematode, prefers sandy soil, susceptible to oak root fungus; bacterial canker, prunes on this rootstock are subject to brown line

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Lovell peach seedling

Pros slightly more resistant to wet conditions than Nemaguard but prefers well-drained soils, slightly more resistant to bacterial canker than Nemaguard.

Cons susceptible to root-knot and root-lesion nematode and to oak-root fungus, some what susceptible to bacterial canker, prunes on this rootstock are subject to brown line.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Citation interspecific peach plum-rooted cutting

Pros highly compatible with apricot and plum, induces early bearing, tolerant of wet soil conditions, resists root knot nematode, advances maturity and increases size and sugar content of fruit.

Cons susceptible to crown gall, bacterial canker and oak root fungus, intolerant of virus with peach or nectarine.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Viking interspecific peach, almond, plum; apricot-rooted cutting (patented)

Pros vigorous, root-knot nematode resistance similar to Nemaguard, productive, precocious tree, increases fruit size, considered well anchored, less susceptible to bacterial canker than seedling rootstocks, tolerant of wet soil conditions, tolerant of saline and alkaline soil conditions.

Cons Trees on peach x almond hybrid rootstocks, including interspecifics, are very sensitive to dehydration. While planting, keep roots damp. Irrigate after planting.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Atlas interspecific (patented) peach, almond, plum; apricot-rooted cutting

Pros extremely vigorous, root-knot nematode resistance similar to Nemaguard, productive, increases fruit size, considered well anchored, tolerant of saline and alkaline soil conditions.

Cons delays fruit maturity in some varieties, intolerant of wet soil conditions, intolerant of dehydration in transplanting.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Titan Hybrid Titan almond x Nemaguard peach hybrid seedling

Pros extremely vigorous, may have root-knot nematode resistance, considered well anchored, tolerant of calcareous soil conditions.

Cons trees may be excessively vigorous on good soil, may delay maturity of fruit, more susceptible to crown rot than peach seedling rootstocks, intolerant of wet soil conditions.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Myrobalan 29-C plum-rooted cutting

Pros makes large tree, immune to root-knot nematode, tolerates wet soils, less sucker development than Marianna 2624.

Cons tends to lean, some incompatibility with almonds, prunes subject to brown line on this rootstock, may set lighter crop than Marianna 2624, susceptible to oak root fungus.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Marianna 2624 plum-rooted cutting

Pros slightly dwarfing, moderately resistant to Phytophthora crown and root rot and oak root fungus, tolerates wet soils, root-knot nematode resistant.

Cons tends to lean; shallow roots the first few years, very susceptible to bacterial canker, incompatible with peaches, nectarines and some almond varieties, suckers profusely, susceptible to crown gall, almonds subject to brown line disease and union mild etch.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Mazzard cherry seedling

Pros more water tolerant than Mahaleb, cold hardy, resists root-knot nematode, vigorous, moderately resistant to oak root fungus.

Cons slow to bear, large tree prone to root suckering, susceptible to crown gall, bacterial canker; root-lesion nematode, scion doesn't show buckskin infection as quickly as on Mahaleb.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Mahaleb cherry seedling

Pros more drought tolerant than Mazzard, resists bacterial canker, smaller tree than Mazzard, moderately resistant to crown gall and root-lesion nematode, shows buckskin infection quickly.

Cons intolerant of wet heavy soils, attracts gophers, tends to sucker, susceptible to oak root fungus, some root-knot nematode susceptibility - very susceptible to Phytophthora crown and root rot and Prunus stem pitting.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Colt (patented) cherry rooted cutting

Pros tolerates wet heavy soils better than Mahaleb, resists bacterial canker; cherries on Colt are field resistant to cherry stem pitting.

Cons drought sensitive, slight to not dwarfing under California irrigated conditions, susceptible to crown gall, not cold hardy (not a problem in California).

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

M 9 apple layered cutting

Pros dwarfs to 40-45% seedling size, very precocious and productive, increases fruit size, has field resistance to cherry stem pitting disease.

Cons shallow rooted, drought sensitive, trees require support, susceptible to fireblight and wooly apple aphid.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

M 26 apple layered cutting

Pros dwarfs to 55-60% seedling size, precocious and productive.

Cons shallow rooted; drought sensitive, staking or trellis usually required, susceptible to Phytophthora, susceptible to fireblight and wooly apple aphid.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

M 7 apple layered cutting

Pros dwarfs to 65-70% seedling size, widely adapted to various soil conditions, moderately resistant to Phytophthora.

Cons suckers, staking may be required, susceptible to wooly apple aphid.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

M 111 apple layered cutting

Pros tolerates waterlogging and drought, well-anchored, resists wooly apple aphid, dwarfs to 90% of seedling-rooted size, good for sandy soils.

Cons susceptible to crown rot under very poor conditions.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

NCB (Northern California Black) walnut seedling

Pros vigorous, resists Verticillium wilt, oak root fungus and root-knot nematode.

Cons susceptible to Phytophthora crown gall and root-lesion nematode, Persian (English) walnut on Northern California Black subject to black line.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Paradox NCB x Persian walnut hybrid seedling

Pros very vigorous, may induce better quality and productivity. Resists root-lesion nematode and certain Phytophthora species, grows better in heavy, wet or low fertility soils than NCB, resistant to oak root fungus.

Cons highly susceptible to crown gall, may be less resistant to oak root fungus than Northern California Black, Persian walnuts on Paradox subject to black line.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Generally, your local, independently-owned nursery will pick the combinations of fruit tree and rootstock that will work best in your area.

Friday, February 11, 2011

Dead Foliage? Leaf It Alone!

When this...

Becomes this...

Don't be too quick to prune out the dead stuff this time of year. Lurking below all that dead foliage on geraniums, pelargoniums, alstroemeria and hydrangeas, there may be this...

New growth, emanating from near the base.

It's still winter; more frosts are possible. In Sacramento, there's a 10% chance of frost until March 23. And that dead foliage offers some protection to that new growth from freezing temperatures.

So, although the temptation is great to "tidy up" in February, give those plants a chance, even if you don't see new growth right now. Some perennials won't sprout new growth until mid-spring.

And "plant insurance" for tender perennials can be purchased in late summer-early fall.

Start cuttings of those plants and keep them in a warm, well-lit area until planting time the following spring. Then, if that perennial in the ground does bite the dust, you have a quick replacement.

A good book on the subject is The American Horticulture Society's Plant Propagation book.

Frost date range (10% chance) for select California locations:

Bakersfield: Nov. 20-Mar. 3
Chico: Oct. 30-Apr. 23
Eureka: Nov. 15-Mar. 14
Fresno: Nov. 7-Apr. 1
Lakeport: Oct. 10-May 10
Livermore: Nov. 3-Apr. 27
Lodi: Nov. 2-Mar. 31
Los Angeles: Jan. 2-Jan. 3
Marysville: Nov. 14-Mar. 16
Modesto: Nov. 10-Mar. 20
Napa: Nov. 9-Apr. 20
Nevada City: Sept. 24-June 4
Placerville: Oct. 22-May 18
Sacramento: Nov. 14-Mar. 23
San Francisco: Dec. 1-Feb. 9
San Jose: Nov. 23-Feb. 19
Santa Rosa: Nov. 5-May 1
Sonora: Oct. 26-May 10
Stockton: Nov. 5-Mar. 30
Truckee: July 31-July 27
Ukiah: Oct. 25-Apr. 29
Vacaville: Nov. 4-Apr. 24
Willows: Nov. 8-Apr. 23
Winters: Nov. 13-Mar. 27
Woodland: Nov. 5-Apr. 1

And for those that feel lucky, the frost date range when there is a 50-50 chance of freezing temperatures:

Bakersfield: Dec. 11-Jan. 31
Chico: Nov. 15-Mar. 20
Davis: Nov. 24-Mar. 4
Eureka: Dec. 15-Jan. 30
Fresno: Nov 25-Feb. 22
Lakeport: Nov. 2-Apr. 20
Livermore: Nov. 13-Mar. 29
Lodi: Nov. 16-Mar. 6
Los Angeles: rare
Marysville: Dec. 2-Feb. 9
Modesto: Nov. 29-Feb. 21
Napa: Nov. 26-Mar. 20
Nevada City: Oct. 15-May 17
Placerville: Nov. 6-Apr. 25
Sacramento: Dec 1-Feb. 14
San Francisco: Jan. 5-Jan. 8
San Jose: Dec 25-Jan. 22
Santa Rosa: Nov. 19-Mar. 25
Sonora: Nov. 12-Apr. 14
Stockton:Nov. 22-Mar. 1
Truckee: Aug. 16-July 11
Ukiah: Nov. 10-Apr. 3
Vacaville: Nov. 18-Mar. 19
Willows: Nov. 23-Mar. 14
Winters: Nov. 27-Feb. 17
Woodland: Nov. 26-Feb. 28

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Flowers for Your Valentine: Get a Clue, Guys

Chris McLaughlin, author of the new book, The Complete Idiot's Guide to Heirloom Vegetables, offers some tips at her latest blog post for the Real Idiots: guys shopping for Valentine's Day gifts.

For a funeral or horse race. Not Valentine's Day.

Especially guys whose idea of upping the ante on Valentine's Day is limited to a card or nothing at all.

More regressive: a card and something thin and nearly transparent from Victoria's Secret (that's a gift to himself!).

Or worst of all: a card, a restaurant dinner and then holding up the negligee for all to see in the restaurant.

Especially if that bright red silky thing looks like it was made for Calista Flockhart...and your wife can pass for Roseanne Barr.

Guys, it's hard to go wrong with flowers.

But you have to do it right.

After decades of reflection on this topic, I have come to this conclusion about male-female relationships, especially on February 14: Women want more romance and passion. Men want more sex.

What Women Want For Valentine's Day

What Men Want

And that's where Chris steps in, offering flower-giving suggestions that would make the most practical (and unromantic) guy say, "Yeah, that'll work!"

Among her suggestions for placating both parties:

• Send the flowers to where she works or where she's around other people. (Guys, if you haven't noticed: women may claim gender solidarity, but they play rough with each other). I like to send a blooming, living plant to my wife's office. That way, there's a good chance the plant will die in a couple of months due to negligence as well as wildly fluctuating office light and temperatures. Then, when the bad news comes out...well, there's nothing wrong with instigating guilt-fueled sex.

• A tough but effective Valentine's Day ploy: send your wife the same flowers she carried down the aisle on your wedding day. I know: your first reaction is, "Huh. She was carrying flowers?" Yeah, dumbass. She was. Check your wedding photos. Then, e-mail a picture of that bouquet-carrying bride to a florist. Let them figure out what they were.

All I remember about our wedding floral arrangements is that my mother insisted, at the last minute, on a Mlle Cecile Brunner rose for her own lapel. Three people were dispatched on a Saturday morning to find one...by 2 p.m. (Mission Accomplished).

• Chris mentions one tactic that will either get you around the bases...or sent back to the dugout. Also send flowers to her mother, thanking her "for bringing your lady-love into this world". After reading that last sentence, women are saying "Awwww, isn't that sweet!" Many men, on the other hand, are fighting back the urge to vomit. The question you have to ask yourself before employing this nuclear option: "Is my wife on good terms with her mother?" If not, that bouquet for your mother-in-law may look to your wife as if you are taking sides. The wrong side.

Flowers are a good Valentine's gift for a woman. They look nice, smell nice, low in calories (0) and romantic. Best of all, you can get them ordered and delivered online or over the phone. Suck it up, guys. You can do this.

Monday, February 7, 2011

Green Acres Nursery Sacramento: A Review

For decades, there was a ramshackle nursery at the corner of Jackson and Florin-Perkins roads in Sacramento, Matsuda's. They made a very good living selling plant material to landscapers from that location. But if you were a homeowner walking in to buy something, well...be prepared to answer many of your own questions. Yes, they did have a retail staff; and yes, they did have an outstanding selection of perennials. But it wasn't the most inviting facility for the general public: inside was a poorly lit, oversized shed that sometimes reeked of garden chemicals. Outside, long rows of dirt and gravel paths surrounded dilapidated tables holding one gallon cans of plant material (Yes, they called it plant material. That's what they call plants in the wholesale trade. Not very sexy, but remember their primary customer base was landscapers). The larger containered plants were wayyyyyy out back; it was not unusual to see rows of knocked-over trees and shrubs after a windy day, blocking the pathways.

The Sacramento area actually has several nurseries like this: primarily landscaper-based sales operations that open their gate to the public, but you better have a good idea what you're shopping for, and what it looks like. Rows can be poorly marked; different varieties interspersed in the same row; plants in plastic containers with another plant's label on the can. This wasn't necessarily the case at Matsuda's, but there are a few such culprits looming. Their draw: good pricing.

About two years ago, Roseville-based Green Acres Nursery took over Matsuda's retail location in Sacramento. I dropped in there last Sunday to see what they have done with the place.

As you drive by, it looks like the same building, with a new paint job. But inside, they've added more lighting, organized the merchandise and expanded the product lines, both organic and non-organic. And no tell-tale odor from leaky containers of non-selective insecticides.

Outside, the dirt and gravel pathways have been upgraded to concrete. The old plant display tables are being removed for newer, sturdier models. And the large, outdoor plant selection puts other nurseries at a disadvantage.

It's February, so a shopper should expect to see a selection of bare root plants: fruit trees, berries, roses. Green Acres-Sacramento had the largest selection of bare root plants I have ever witnessed in a Sacramento area nursery. Row after row of bare root fruit trees; an amazing selection of bare root grapes and berries; and tables overflowing with bare root roses. And, nearby, one of the biggest displays of citrus trees I have ever seen.

Sure, their prices can't compete with the box stores; but unlike the paltry selection of bare root fruit trees you might find at a box store - low chill varieties that may be intended for Southern California - here was a collection of taste-test winning fruit trees that would be right at home, in any home, in our area of Northern California.

Green Acres did keep several staffers from Matsuda's, so there is still an emphasis on perennials here. And I'm happy to say, that despite requests from customers, they had no tomato or pepper plants in stock. After all, it's only February; tomatoes shouldn't go in the ground here until April or May.

Meanwhile, across town at one of the big box stores, summer vegetable displays filled the garden areas, including six packs of beans and squash. Beans and squash? Beans, whose seeds can be directly sown in the garden? Squash, a vegetable that requires soil temperatures in the 70's & 80's to grow? And don't transplant very well? I guess that's how you get repeat customers: buy and plant summer vegetables in February; plants die in March; customer returns to the store to buy more in April.

But the biggest improvement at this Green Acres Nursery branch? The service. I was approached by four different employees within my first five minutes in the store, asking if I needed help with anything. And no, they had no idea who I was (I'm taller, thinner and younger on the radio).

Independent nurseries currently engage in a lot of self-flagellation over the question, "How do we compete and succeed against the big box stores?" Green Acres has the answer.