New Year's Resolutions for Gardeners

Just as dependable as the January appearance of the fragrant, yet short-lived flowers on the winter daphne, some of the same New Year's resolutions keep blooming and fading, year after year. Learning a foreign language, cleaning the garage and mastering a musical instrument are a few of my yearly (unfulfilled) favorites. But, on a more realistic scale, there are some gardening resolutions that all of us can fulfill with a little effort in 2013:

* Stop the Bug Battle Before it Starts. Stressed plants attract pests and diseases. Keeping flowers, vegetables, trees and shrubs healthy can ward off all sorts of problems, saving you time and money. Applying the correct amount of water and fertilizer, as well as planting in the right place, helps plants get off to a strong start. The Sunset Western Garden Book is an excellent reference for the "right plant in the right place."

* Pinpoint That Pest. Before you spray, know what bug you are spraying. Identify the pest, using a good reference book such as, "Pests of the Garden and Small Farm" or "Pests of Landscape Trees and Shrubs" from the Ag and Natural Resources division of the University of California. Both those books take an Integrated Pest Management approach, which can help lead you towards using less toxic pesticides in your battles against the bad bugs. A qualified nurseryperson or your local Cooperative Extension office can also help you identify the bad bugs. A list of the most common bad guys can be found here.

* Consider pesticide alternatives before spraying potentially dangerous chemicals.  Among your safest choices: a blast of water from your garden hose can dislodge aphids from the backs of leaves. Insecticidal soap can control a host of bad bugs (such as aphids, whiteflies and spider mites) without harming the good ones (ladybugs, praying mantis and honey bees). Other lower-toxicity choices include iron phosphate for snail control; Bt (mosquito larvae, caterpillars, cabbage  loopers) or Spinosad for cabbage looper, caterpillar, leafroller, codling moth, thrip control.

* Choose the least toxic product. If all else fails and you decide to use a chemical insecticide, fungicide or herbicide,  Look for the words CAUTION, WARNING or DANGER in bold letters on the label. A product with CAUTION on the label contains slightly toxic materials; WARNING indicates moderate toxicity; DANGER signifies a highly toxic substance.

* Read all chemical label instructions carefully. Don't apply more of a chemical than what is called for on the label. Not only is it wasteful, but it's more dangerous for the person applying it.

• If the label doesn't list the pest, it probably won't kill it. Many times, gardeners will spray just about any pesticide on a plant to control a suspected bad bug. The information on the label of a chemical pesticide will tell you which pests the product controls.

 • When using chemicals, employ a separate sprayer, either hose-end or tank sprayer, for different tasks. Use one sprayer for herbicides (such as Roundup or any weed killers); use another sprayer for insecticides and fungicides. It's not uncommon for gardeners to lose prized plants because they didn't rinse out a herbicide thoroughly from a sprayer before using the same unit for insect or leaf disease control. Rinse out the sprayer and nozzle after each use.

 • Use less water. Turn off your lawn's automatic sprinklers during the winter. Install drip irrigation or soaker hoses around outdoor trees and shrubs. In the summer, reduce your watering time so that sprinkler water won't puddle up and run off the grass. Tips for using less water? Check this out.

• Water Wisely. It's been said that 90% of all plant problems can be traced back to a watering problem. Know how much water you are putting on your lawn and plants. Watering twice a week should be sufficient for most plants in the ground, including lawns, from April through October. Containerized plants on a hot patio may need to watered daily during the summer. Make sure the soil isn't too muddy or too dry the day AFTER watering. A moisture meter will let you know how wet the soil is at the root level of your plants.

 • Plan before you plant. Consider only those vegetables that you know your family will eat. Plant flowers that attract beneficial insects (more info here). Grow several different annuals that will give you a succession of color through the year. Use water-stingy perennials and drought tolerant plantsfor a low-maintenance garden.
 

• Ponder Some More Before You Plant. Is that tree or shrub you'll be thinking about buying for your yard a good choice? Is it meant for our area? Is there enough sun (or shade) as well as room for it as it matures? One common mistake people make when planting: transplanting an itty bitty tree from a small container to an area that is too close to the house or fence. In just a few years, that little specimen may be twenty feet tall and wide. Again, the Sunset Western Garden Book should be your go-to reference.

• Patience, patience. Don't assume that an entire plant was killed by a wintry frost or freeze. Many plants can  lose their leaves and top stems during cold weather, yet rebound from the base of the plant in spring, putting out new growth. Again, leave the damaged portions on the plant until late winter or early spring. Remember the "bend or break" rule: if a branch snaps in two under gentle pressure, it is probably dead. If it bends, it still has life. More info here.

• Yank out your 2012 summer vegetable plants. If you live in an area where temperatures fall below 32 degrees, those peppers, squash and tomato plants are definitely goners, and won't be coming back to life. Instead, start catalog shopping for seeds for your summer vegetable garden in the weeks ahead. Here's a link to a vegetable planting calendar for Northern California.

• Remove any sucker growth on citrus trees. Sometimes, a heavy freeze can damage your orange, lemon or lime trees so much that the tree sends out new shoots from the rootstock. These branches will produce heavy thorns and inedible fruit, if any. More info here on citrus suckers.
 

• Remove any underperforming fruit trees now. Peach, apricot and nectarine trees that produce more sick leaves than fruit should be replaced with better deciduous fruit tree varieties, which are more compatible with our area. Nurseries are now getting in their shipments of bare root fruit trees; shop now for the best selection. Bare Root fruit tree buying hints here.

• Take out any ho-hum rose bushes that produce few warm weather blooms. Garden centers will have a good supply of new, bare root roses in January. The best roses for California? Check this list.
 

• Start a compost pile, compost bin or worm composting bin. Yard and kitchen waste that is put to use in the backyard garden benefits not only your soil but cuts down on the need for expanding (and dwindling numbers of) landfills. A good online source for composting basics can be found at mastercomposter.com.

• ENJOY gardening in the new year. Don't let the work (or failure of success) sour the experience. Remember what awaits you this year for your efforts: the late winter beauty of the first blooming tulip, quince or flowering cherry tree, the taste of a homegrown tomato and the bounty of a seemingly endless supply of summertime zucchini.

• Don't plant so much zucchini.

Saving Water, the CLCA Way

     Add these tips to your never-ending list, "How to Reduce Outdoor Water Use". These suggestions come from the California Landscape Contractors Association (CLCA), who are having a watershed year (pun intended) in assisting homeowners who are undergoing water meter sticker shock. This advice can also help your landscape survive a drought, especially if outdoor watering gets further restrictions. I've kicked in a few parenthetical thoughts of my own, as well. Naturally.


Water Trees First.  If trees are lost, it increases the surrounding temperature making everything hotter.  They are also expensive to replace.  Many surrounding plants depend on them, because trees offer shade and protection for some lawns and other plants that may not survive the hot sun without them.  In addition, they are often homes, shelter and/or food to birds and animals, which could possibly die if they perish. (Healthy trees make your home worth more, and sell faster. A survey of Realtors  showed that 56%  felt that the presence of healthy shade trees contribute to a large extent to a home's "sell-ability"; 60% indicated that they greatly add to the curb appeal, or first impression of a home; and 62% maintained that their presence has a strong impact on a potential buyer's impression of a block neighborhood.)


Some Ways to Maximize Water and Help Protect Your Trees


… Drill several 4" wide holes about 24"-30" deep around the base of the tree being careful not to damage large roots.  Fill the holes with compost, which will allow the water to reach the roots of the tree. (I wouldn't do this at the base of the tree; feeder roots are closer to the outer canopy of existing trees)


… Another option is to put your garden hose on a timed, low drip and get the water down deep.  You can also install a temporary drip system tied into a hose bib or use a soaker hose on the surface to slowly water the base of the tree. (again, the tree's feeder roots radiate out throughout the entire understory of the tree, and beyond. Position that drip or soaker hose in a concentric circle, winding further and further out as the tree grows.)

What Can I Do Now to Prepare for the Drought?


… Mulch heavily all flower and soil beds.  Mulch helps keep water in the soil.  Do not use rocks/gravel because they add heat to the soil and moisture evaporates faster. (Amen.)


… Mow grass (Fescue, Rye, Kentucky Blue Grass) higher,  3"-3.5" to promote deeper root growth and hold more moisture (I keep my mower on the highest blade setting year round for our fescue lawn).


… Aerate the lawn and fill the holes with compost so the water can infiltrate deeper. (This is best done in the Fall).


… If you intend to prune, do so before April or don't prune.  Pruning stimulates growth, which needs more water.  Existing growth will also provide additional shade to the soil, helping to retain moisture. (Pruning time depends on the existing plant's needs. For deciduous trees, fall and winter are OK times)


… Do not use high nitrogen fertilizers during a drought.  They encourage growth but the plants will need more water. (there are lots of reasons not to use high nitrogen fertilizer. Large amounts of N encourage weak, green growth...a buffet for bad bugs such as aphids and whiteflies).


… Fix or replace any broken sprinklers and repair leaks. (which is why I encourage people to water their lawn early in the morning, not in the middle of the night. If you see a problem, you are more apt to fix the problem).


… Keep your lawn as healthy as possible.  A healthy lawn will survive better.  Many lawns can go very dry and still come back. (how about reducing the size of your lawn and replacing it with plants that require less water, yet are still beautiful. Want a list? Go here.)


… Attach a water efficient spray nozzle to your hose and use it to mist your lawn to build up humidity for a few minutes at the end of the day. (Huh? I guess the CLCA didn't get the message that you are supposed to water only early in the day. And, the University of California Guide to Healthy Lawns advises against that practice, saying, "Do not water during the evening or pre-midnight hours because thatch and blades are susceptible to diseases if they are wet during cool nights").
 
… Check with your local water agency for possible rebates on low water usage irrigation products. (Good luck on that. Let me know what you find out. Good news in Roseville: that city found some money and is restarting its "Cash For Grass" program)

How to Maximize Landscape Watering During A Drought


… Start watering earlier and finish before 9:00 am. (yep. or 10 a.m., if you are a party animal.)


… Set your spray irrigation timer to run half the normal time and run a second cycle at least half an hour later.  This will dramatically reduce runoff.  Clay and other soils will only absorb so much water and anything beyond that point is wasted water.  Average time should be 5 minutes or less per cycle on a level site. (Be your own best timer. Turn on your sprinklers. When water starts running off the landscape, turn your sprinklers off. That's how long they should run during one cycle.)


… Consider a smart controller, which monitors the weather and adjusts watering accordingly.
(As long as you're an electrical genius, fully employed, not furloughed or in debt to your eyeballs, you might be able to afford and install one of these systems. The good news: they will be coming down in price and will be easier to install and maintain. In time.)


… Soil may look dry, but may still have plenty of moisture. If a 6" screwdriver goes easily into the soil then wait to water.  (Or, better yet, use a moisture meter).


What if I Can Only Water One or Two Days a Week?


… Program your sprinkler time for multiple start times with run cycles about 5 minutes each.  Repeat the cycles 3-4 times at least 30 minutes apart. If runoff occurs reduce minutes per cycle. (Those are ballpark figures. If you don't own a ballpark, then do the timing yourself, as explained above. For clay soils, you'll want to separate those start times by a couple of hours, not 30 minutes).


… Mow lawns higher and less frequently.  Do not take off more than 25% when mowing. (use a mulching mower, too!)



How Can I Maximize My Landscape Water Savings?


… Check regularly for leaks and then fix them immediately.


… Incorporate existing water saving technology into your irrigation system.  New sprinkler heads and smart controllers maximize water savings. (Check out these nifty new lower-water use sprinkler heads from Hunter).


… If you have a water meter, learn to read your meter.  It will help you determine if you have a leak.
  
… Turn on each sprinkler zone and see how much time it takes to start generating runoff for each zone. Round sprinkler time down to the nearest minute and set that time as your maximum run time for each station.  Program your controller for multiple run cycles. (Now, why didn't they just say this earlier?)


… Runoff means wasted water. No runoff means the water is being absorbed by the soil. (Or, the sprinklers are clogged)


How Can I Prepare for a Drier Future?


… Make sure your irrigation system is efficient, pressure regulated and consistently up to date with the latest water saving technology (CLCA sez: "Spend Money!" If you repair what you have, and perhaps swap out your really old, inefficient impulse and sprayer sprinkler heads for ones that are more efficient, you'll save water and have a healthier landscape)


… Study your landscape and the local community.  Examine the long-term survivability of your current landscape and consider incorporating climate appropriate plants. (Going to shop for plants at a big box store? Take a copy of the Sunset Western Garden Book with you to make sure the plant is right for your area. Big box stores tend to ship the same plants throughout the state. And very few plants will thrive in every area of California. Shop for plants at your local nursery instead.)


… If your area is at risk for fire, consider adding native fire retardant plants and learn how to protect your property. (And since they won't tell you how, I will. And. Las Palitas Nursery even went to the trouble of lighting a whole bunch of plants to see how long they would burn.)


… Study your environment, the animals that exist within the landscape and your long term needs to help you make good ecological choices. (anybody want my skunk and possum population?)