New Year's Resolutions for Gardeners

Just as dependable as the January appearance of the fragrant, yet short-lived flowers on the winter daphne, some of the same New Year's resolutions keep blooming and fading, year after year. Learning a foreign language, cleaning the garage and mastering a musical instrument are a few of my yearly (unfulfilled) favorites. But, on a more realistic scale, there are some gardening resolutions that all of us can fulfill with a little effort in 2013:

* Stop the Bug Battle Before it Starts. Stressed plants attract pests and diseases. Keeping flowers, vegetables, trees and shrubs healthy can ward off all sorts of problems, saving you time and money. Applying the correct amount of water and fertilizer, as well as planting in the right place, helps plants get off to a strong start. The Sunset Western Garden Book is an excellent reference for the "right plant in the right place."

* Pinpoint That Pest. Before you spray, know what bug you are spraying. Identify the pest, using a good reference book such as, "Pests of the Garden and Small Farm" or "Pests of Landscape Trees and Shrubs" from the Ag and Natural Resources division of the University of California. Both those books take an Integrated Pest Management approach, which can help lead you towards using less toxic pesticides in your battles against the bad bugs. A qualified nurseryperson or your local Cooperative Extension office can also help you identify the bad bugs. A list of the most common bad guys can be found here.

* Consider pesticide alternatives before spraying potentially dangerous chemicals.  Among your safest choices: a blast of water from your garden hose can dislodge aphids from the backs of leaves. Insecticidal soap can control a host of bad bugs (such as aphids, whiteflies and spider mites) without harming the good ones (ladybugs, praying mantis and honey bees). Other lower-toxicity choices include iron phosphate for snail control; Bt (mosquito larvae, caterpillars, cabbage  loopers) or Spinosad for cabbage looper, caterpillar, leafroller, codling moth, thrip control.

* Choose the least toxic product. If all else fails and you decide to use a chemical insecticide, fungicide or herbicide,  Look for the words CAUTION, WARNING or DANGER in bold letters on the label. A product with CAUTION on the label contains slightly toxic materials; WARNING indicates moderate toxicity; DANGER signifies a highly toxic substance.

* Read all chemical label instructions carefully. Don't apply more of a chemical than what is called for on the label. Not only is it wasteful, but it's more dangerous for the person applying it.

• If the label doesn't list the pest, it probably won't kill it. Many times, gardeners will spray just about any pesticide on a plant to control a suspected bad bug. The information on the label of a chemical pesticide will tell you which pests the product controls.

 • When using chemicals, employ a separate sprayer, either hose-end or tank sprayer, for different tasks. Use one sprayer for herbicides (such as Roundup or any weed killers); use another sprayer for insecticides and fungicides. It's not uncommon for gardeners to lose prized plants because they didn't rinse out a herbicide thoroughly from a sprayer before using the same unit for insect or leaf disease control. Rinse out the sprayer and nozzle after each use.

 • Use less water. Turn off your lawn's automatic sprinklers during the winter. Install drip irrigation or soaker hoses around outdoor trees and shrubs. In the summer, reduce your watering time so that sprinkler water won't puddle up and run off the grass. Tips for using less water? Check this out.

• Water Wisely. It's been said that 90% of all plant problems can be traced back to a watering problem. Know how much water you are putting on your lawn and plants. Watering twice a week should be sufficient for most plants in the ground, including lawns, from April through October. Containerized plants on a hot patio may need to watered daily during the summer. Make sure the soil isn't too muddy or too dry the day AFTER watering. A moisture meter will let you know how wet the soil is at the root level of your plants.

 • Plan before you plant. Consider only those vegetables that you know your family will eat. Plant flowers that attract beneficial insects (more info here). Grow several different annuals that will give you a succession of color through the year. Use water-stingy perennials and drought tolerant plantsfor a low-maintenance garden.
 

• Ponder Some More Before You Plant. Is that tree or shrub you'll be thinking about buying for your yard a good choice? Is it meant for our area? Is there enough sun (or shade) as well as room for it as it matures? One common mistake people make when planting: transplanting an itty bitty tree from a small container to an area that is too close to the house or fence. In just a few years, that little specimen may be twenty feet tall and wide. Again, the Sunset Western Garden Book should be your go-to reference.

• Patience, patience. Don't assume that an entire plant was killed by a wintry frost or freeze. Many plants can  lose their leaves and top stems during cold weather, yet rebound from the base of the plant in spring, putting out new growth. Again, leave the damaged portions on the plant until late winter or early spring. Remember the "bend or break" rule: if a branch snaps in two under gentle pressure, it is probably dead. If it bends, it still has life. More info here.

• Yank out your 2012 summer vegetable plants. If you live in an area where temperatures fall below 32 degrees, those peppers, squash and tomato plants are definitely goners, and won't be coming back to life. Instead, start catalog shopping for seeds for your summer vegetable garden in the weeks ahead. Here's a link to a vegetable planting calendar for Northern California.

• Remove any sucker growth on citrus trees. Sometimes, a heavy freeze can damage your orange, lemon or lime trees so much that the tree sends out new shoots from the rootstock. These branches will produce heavy thorns and inedible fruit, if any. More info here on citrus suckers.
 

• Remove any underperforming fruit trees now. Peach, apricot and nectarine trees that produce more sick leaves than fruit should be replaced with better deciduous fruit tree varieties, which are more compatible with our area. Nurseries are now getting in their shipments of bare root fruit trees; shop now for the best selection. Bare Root fruit tree buying hints here.

• Take out any ho-hum rose bushes that produce few warm weather blooms. Garden centers will have a good supply of new, bare root roses in January. The best roses for California? Check this list.
 

• Start a compost pile, compost bin or worm composting bin. Yard and kitchen waste that is put to use in the backyard garden benefits not only your soil but cuts down on the need for expanding (and dwindling numbers of) landfills. A good online source for composting basics can be found at mastercomposter.com.

• ENJOY gardening in the new year. Don't let the work (or failure of success) sour the experience. Remember what awaits you this year for your efforts: the late winter beauty of the first blooming tulip, quince or flowering cherry tree, the taste of a homegrown tomato and the bounty of a seemingly endless supply of summertime zucchini.

• Don't plant so much zucchini.

Persimmon: THE Edible Ornamental of Autumn

California's Central Valley is ablaze with the other orange fruit tree currently: the brightly colored persimmon. And it's not just the fruit.


Persimmon tree leaves can turn a brilliant hue of red before the first big wind and rain storm of late November washes them off their branches. 

What's left behind is the unpicked fruit, dangling like holiday ornaments during December. That's a feast for our eyes...as well as a banquet for hungry birds.






Persimmons have adapted well to our California climate: warm, dry summers and mild winters. At least 500 different Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki) varieties were brought to California during a major planting spree from 1870 to 1920. In 1877 alone, more than 5,000 plants in 19 varieties were imported from Japan. As a result, 99% of the commercial persimmon crop is grown here in California.

Persimmons are quite nutritious, as well, loaded with Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Fiber, and antioxidants such as Beta-Carotene and Lycopene. 


If you live in the Central Valley, Southern California, Bay Area or low foothills ... you can grow that! Bare root persimmon trees will be available at local nurseries during late December, January and February. 

360-degree mini-sprinkler from Dripworks

Give them full sun and a regular irrigation in the dry months for best production. Persimmon trees can tolerate partial shade.






Persimmons are usually classified as either astringent or non-astringent. For fresh eating straight from the tree, choose a non-astringent, self-pollinating variety such as Fuyu, Giant Fuyu, Yemon or Izu. Astrigent varieties, which need to soften thoroughly before they sweeten, include Hachiya, Chocolate or Tamopan. Those varieties are self-fruitful, as well.

A partial harvest from one, 7-foot tall Yemon persimmon tree

Persimmon growing advice from the California Rare Fruit Growers (CRFG):

Location: Full sun with some air movement is recommended for persimmon trees in inland areas, although they will tolerate some partial shade. Persimmons grown in cooler areas should have full sun with protection from cooling breezes. As an attractive ornamental the tree fits well in the landscape. It does not compete well with eucalyptus.

Soil: Persimmons can withstand a wide rage of conditions as long as the soil is not overly salty, but does best in deep, well drained loam. A pH range of 6.5 to 7.5 is preferred. The tree has a strong tap root which may mean digging a deeper hole than usual when planting (when on D. kaki stock).

Irrigation: Persimmon trees will withstand short periods of drought, but the fruit will be larger and of higher quality with regular watering. Extreme drought will cause the leaves and fruit to drop prematurely. Any fruit left on the tree will probably sunburn. Some 36 to 48 inches of water are needed annually, applied gradually in spring and tapering off in the fall. Hot inland areas may require 2 or 3 applications weekly, while coastal areas may need watering only once every 6 weeks, depending on the soil. If a drip system is is used, the emitters should be moved away from the trunk as the tree matures.

Fertilization: Most trees do well with a minimum of fertilizing. Excess nitrogen can cause fruit drop. If mature leaves are not deep green and shoot growth is less than a foot per year, apply a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 at a rate of 1 pound per inch of trunk diameter at ground level. Spread the fertilizer evenly under the canopy in late winter or early spring.

Pruning: Prune persimmon trees to develop a strong framework of main branches while the tree is young. Otherwise the fruit, which is borne at the tips of the branches, may be too heavy and cause breakage. A regular program of removal of some new growth and heading others each year will improve structure and reduce alternate bearing. An open vase system is probably best. Even though the trees grow well on their own, persimmons can be pruned heavily as a hedge, as a screen, or to control size. They even make a nice espalier. Cut young trees back to 1/2 high (or about 3 feet) at the time of planting.

Pests and Diseases: Persimmons are relatively problem-free, although mealybug and scale in association with ants can sometimes cause problems. Ant control will usually take care of these pests. Other occasional pests include white flies, thrips which can cause skin blemishes and a mite that is blamed for the "brown lace collar" near the calyx. Waterlogging can also cause root rot. Vertebrate pests such as squirrels, deer, coyotes, rats, opossums and birds are fond of the fruit and gophers will attack the roots. Other problems include blossom and young fruit shedding, especially on young trees. This is not usually a serious problem, but if the drop is excessive, it may be useful to try girdling a few branches. Over watering or over fertilization may also be responsible. Large quantities of small fruit on an otherwise healthy tree can be remedied by removing all but one or two fruit per twig in May or June.

Harvest: Harvest astringent varieties when they are hard but fully colored. They will soften on the tree and improve in quality, but you will probably lose many fruit to the birds. Astringent persimmons will ripen off the tree if stored at room temperature. Nonastringent persimmons are ready to harvest when they are fully colored, but for best flavor, allow them to soften slightly after harvest. Both kinds of persimmons should be cut from the tree with hand-held pruning shears, leaving the calyx intact Unless the fruit is to be used for drying whole, the stems should be cut as close to the fruit as possible. Even though the fruit is relatively hard when harvested, it will bruise easily, so handle with care.

Storage: Mature, hard astringent persimmons can be stored in the refrigerator for at least a month. They can also be frozen for 6 to 8 months. Nonastringent persimmons can be stored for a short period at room temperature. They will soften if kept with other fruit in the refrigerator. Persimmons also make an excellent dried fruit. They can either be peeled and dried whole or cut into slices (peeled or unpeeled) and dried that way. When firm astringent persimmons are peeled and dried whole they lose all their astringency and develop a sweet, datelike consistency. 

Yemon Persimmon

And we are in total agreement with the CRFG: persimmons make an excellent dried fruit, a great sweet snack or for use in cookies or breads!






According to our favorite book on dehydration techniques, "How to Dry Foods" by Deanna DeLong:

• Wash and remove the stem cap. Cut fruit in half and then into 3/8-1/2" slices.
• Place on a dehydrator sheet in single layers.
• Dry at 140 degrees for 1-2 hours, then reduce heat to 135 degrees for an additional 7 hours (approximate).
• When done, they should be tender and pliable, but not sticky.

At that point, you can either vacuum seal them in plastic bags for long term preservation, or store the dried persimmons in a canning jar for quick use.

Backyard gardeners who do a lot of drying are passionate about their choice of dehydrators. Some prefer the rectangular Excalibur dehydrator ; others (including our household) enjoy the circular Nesco American Harvest Dehydrator . Our largest complaint about the Excalibur: the fan blows from the back to the front, which can rearrange any lightweight herb leaves that you might be trying to dry. The Nesco American Harvest dehydrator's fan moves warm air from the bottom up, offering less disturbance to the drying crops. Still, the Excalibur is a good choice for most fruit and vegetable drying.